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  • gildnersportpsych


"Light," a film by Caroline Treadway, reveals the hidden world of eating disorders in professional rock climbing. Eating disorders exist for all genders in recreational climbing and many other areas of performance as well. The truth is, losing weight may benefit performance in the short run. But while other areas of your body are adjusting for starvation, binging, purging, or other behaviors, those behaviors are taking their toll on the areas doing the adjusting (e.g. liver, heart). In the long run, your mental and physical health will suffer and your performance will suffer. I recently learned from a Strength Coach about the body weight to power ratio. It seems a healthier number to focus on as you have control over how you train and build strength without having to worry so much about weight. In fact, one would be expected to gain weight as they gain muscle while losing weight in an unhealthy manner is generally going to decrease muscle mass followed by decreased strength. I hope you'll watch the video, regardless of your gender!

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